Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Homemade Electrical Heater/Diy Heater

Picture of Homemade Electrical Heater/Diy Heater
Anyone who knows a little bit about electronics will know  how does  the electrical heat work.Here is an article about Electrical Heaters .
Materials you can buy for about 5$.You will need:
-Old hair dryer
-Housing I used an old PC power suply
-Some wires
-Safety fuse
Tools:
-Wire cuters
-Pliers
-Knife
-Screwdriver
Part I
Srtip the hair dryer and remove heater and fan (usualy they are in one peac )
Just leave two wires positive and negative end.

Part II
Set the heater and fan on place you want, I left it outside so it doesnt heat the interior.When you gluit conect wires to fuse, switch and then to  AC sorce .

IN ACTION 
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The heater is efectif in small spaces.
Attention
Don't touch wires becouse of higt voltage, don't touch heater you can get burns and 
electricity of the heater can kill you so be careful and follow the rules and regulations.

How to make a small heater

Steps

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    First, you need your supplies. For this you will need resistance wire, a knitting needle, a tin can like a soup can), a piece of clay stem pipe for both ends, some wire and a 6v battery.
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    Now to make the heater. First, get a can. I used a soup can but you can use any tin can.
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    Get the resistance wire and wrap it round the knitting needle.
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    Cut the soup can and insert the resistance wire and poke holes in the side of the can with the knitting needle.
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    Now use the clay stem pipe to insulate both ends where the resistance wire sticks out.
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    Attach wires to the end of the resistance wire element and attach the 6 volt battery to operate it.

Thursday, June 16, 2016

DIY Solar Panel

Featured
Picture of DIY Solar Panel
Creating a solar panel out of broken re-used solar cell pieces. I ordered a pack of these from http://siliconsolar.com (3$ for a bagful of them - you can order here). In addition, you will need some conductive copper mesh (available at most art stores), glue gun + sticks, a multimeter and a conductive pen (or any sort of conductive brush-on - I got my conductive silver pen here). In this tutorial I will try to explain the best technique I found to connect these broken cells, in order to create your own CHEAP solar panel.

Step 1: get the solar cells

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this is how the cells can look like when they arrive

Step 2: check power and ground

Picture of check power and ground
When you look at the solar cell, make sure you check voltage between the positive side (the back side which is usually grey) and the negative side (which is the black side, with all the lines on it) of each cell. You can simply use a multimeter by placing its leads on the cell itself. This step is crucial, otherwise you'll connect bad cells in the middle of your link, causing the whole panel not to work.

Step 3: use conductive pen if needed

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You need to make sure that all the tiny little lines in the negative side of the cells are interconnected (a way to gather all the electrons from the surface). This step is not necessary for all cells, only for the ones like in this picture, which don't have any connection between the lines on the surface. you can use the conductive pen to draw a thin line which connects all of them. Once you do that, you will immediately see the voltage rising for that specific cell.

Step 4: cell with conductive pen line

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here's an example of a cell with the conductive pen line on it, linking between the tiny conductive leads on the negative side of the solar cell.

Step 5: linking the cells

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This can get a bit tricky, but once you get the hang of it, can be done fast enough. First, some technical notes: In order to get higher voltage, you need to connect two cells in series. This means that the negative part of the first connects to the positive part of the second. As you continue to add more cells in series, you will get a higher voltage from side to side on your solar strip. This is all good, but if your cells are small-ish, they won't generate much amperage. So even if you have a high voltage, you probably won't be able to give it any load (probably will hardly light an LED). In order to get higher amperage through the circuit, you need to connect cells in parallel (positive side to positive side, negative side to negative side). When you do this, make sure the positive and negative leads (copper mesh in this case) don't short themselves out.
I found that the best way to connect between two cells was to use hot glue and some conductive mesh. The mesh is good since it allows light to come through it, and we all love glue guns. So all you need to do is glue the mesh onto the solar cell surface. Its always better to have a longer strip of mesh on the surface, with a big enough shared surface space between the two. Always check with a multimeter that there is connectivity, and that there is voltage coming through. Its a bummer later to try and figure out where the problem is.

Step 6: example measurement for 2-cell link

Picture of example measurement for 2-cell link

Step 7: example measurements from a 6-cell link

Picture of example measurements from a 6-cell link
This solar array can light an LED when close to the window. (I know... doesn't help much)
But it can definitely charge a battery... (instructable still in the making...)

Step 8: silicon coating

Picture of silicon coating
I highly recommend applying a silicon coating to your solar array. The cells are so fragile, and the links can easily detach or move out of place. A thin coat of silicon keeps it all in place... and also gives it a very cool effect!

Step 9: Solar Jelly

Picture of Solar Jelly
Here's what i made.
A little Solar Jellyfish. I put a battery and servo motor inside. When there was enough light on it, the object moved its legs up and down just like a jellyfish (video coming very soon...). And when it was dark, it lit up from inside and became a light display.
A bit messy, but still a prototype.
Next iteration coming up real soon.

project page

Step 10: hope this helped

Picture of hope this helped
Please leave a comment if you have any questions, suggestions or ideas.

Simplest Charger/desulfator Ever

Picture of Simplest Charger/desulfator Ever
This charger can charge almost any battery type at any voltage. It desulfates lead acid batteries as well. It works quite well. Be warned tho, it contains lethal voltages. If powered by 120vac it can get up to 170 volts and 340 volts on 220vac.

Step 1: Materials:

Ac run capacitor Rectifier or 4 diodes Switch(optional) Electrical cord

Step 2: Schematic

Picture of Schematic

Step 3:

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As you can see it is quite simple. The capacitor couples the battery to the mains as well as limiting the current. At 120vac it charges at 1 amp for ever 22uf in capacitance, 13 uf at 240. The switch is merely convenience so i dont have to unplug and replug. Then the diode bridge rectifies it to dc.

Step 4: Usage

it works in a way that if the battery is sulfated or weak etc. it will always charge at the preset amps. So if the battery is only taking 5 amps at 12 volts and u have it set for 10 amps, it will raise its voltage until it is charging at 10 amps. At 120vac the charging voltage could go up to 170vdc. 340 with 240. It also pulses at 120 herts which desulfates the lead acid batteries. It should also be noted that this is a universal charger and will charge any voltage battery. It should also be noted that the is no protection against over charging and if it is left on the charger when the battery is already charged it could damage the battery.

Saturday, May 28, 2016

Diy cutting laser

How to make a powerful burning laser for CHEAP!

Picture of How to make a powerful burning laser for CHEAP!
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After watching many videos on youtube of people burning things with high power lasers, I wanted one.Those lasers can cost a lot of money though, something I don't have. So I made one, and in this instructable, I will show you how to make one for less than ten bucks. This is my first instructable, so if I did something wrong, please tell me. This laser outputs between 50-100 milliwatts(I think), and can burn electrical tape, light matches and melt thin plastic.I was messing around with this laser one day, and I shined it at a mirror,  and the laser shined back in my eye for a second. I heard a popping sound and I couldn't see anything for a couple of minutes. Now, I was LUCKY that I did not get permanently blinded, but if I shined it a second longer I probably would have been. Now with that said, NEVER point a laser at another person, animals, or any other living thing.

Okay, Now lets make the laser.

Step 1: The Parts needed

Picture of The Parts needed
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You will need:

1. A old DVD drive (free)

2. A LM317 ($2.00)

3. 10 ohm resistor ($0.10)

4. An Aixiz Module from here: ($5.00)

5. 6-volt battery pack from Radioshack ($1.99)


Tools Needed:

A soldering iron (free)

Screwdriver (free)

Total Cost : $9.10

Step 2: Get the diode

Picture of Get the diode
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Remove all the screws on your DVD drive, take off the rails by removing the screws that hold it in place and take off the laser tray. There should be two diodes on the laser sled, one of them is infrared. You can test for the red diode by hooking the diode up to a 3 volt battery pack. Then remove the weak 5 mw laser module from the Aixiz housing and add the new laser diode from the DVD laser assembly. Solder 2 wires to the positive and negative of the laser diode according to the diagram.

Step 3: Build the driver

Picture of Build the driver
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Solder the positive wire from the battery pack to the right pin on the LM317. Solder the 10 ohm resistor between the middle pin and the left pin. Then solder the laser positive to the left pin, and the laser negative directly to the battery negative. The   picture shows a 5 ohm resistor, but it should be a 10 ohm. If you use a 5 ohm, it will still work, and the laser will be more powerful, but it will shorten the life of the diode.

Step 4: Burn stuff!

Put in 4 AA batterys in the battery pack, and fire it up! The laser dot is really bright. I like to shine it through my neighbors bathroom window and scare the crap out of him(not a good idea). But anyway have fun, be safe, and don't get caught.

Sunday, May 22, 2016

The FM Transmitter

The Ultimate FM Transmitter (Long Range Spybug)

by
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Picture of The Ultimate FM Transmitter  (Long Range Spybug)
Have you ever wanted to broadcast your own radio station within your neighborhood? Ever get curious on where people get those "Surveillance Bugs" from spy and action movies? This small and simple FM transmitter is the toy that geeks have always wanted.
FM transmitters can be complicated to build, that's why I'm teaching you how to make a foolproof FM transmitter. There's no need to buy kits, this tutorial includes the PCB layout and the schematics. It has a range of up to 1/4 mile or more. It's great for room monitoring, baby listening and nature research.
My Experience:
FM transmitters remind me of my early years in electronics. When I was 8, I came across Art Swan's FM transmitter circuit. At the time I had no idea of where I'm supposed to buy the parts, so I recycled mine out of junk. I guess the biggest struggle that you're going to face is finding a trimmer capacitor. I'll give some tips on the last step of this instructable. In a nutshell, I highly recommend this project for everyone and also those who are still new in electronics.
>>>>>>>WARNING: You may experience nostalgia! :D<<<<<<<
Technical Specifications:
- 1/4 Mile Radius Range
-Powered By A 9V Battery
- Lasts For Several Days
- Adjustable 87-108MHz
Please Watch: Celebrating the 1st episode of my new YouTube channel! It's my first time to document a project with videography. I hope you guys enjoy the vid! Please leave a comment below, I would appreciate some advise regarding the video.
Disclaimer: This project is for educational purposes only and is not intended to air/ interfere with present radio channels. Neither site nor I, am liable for careless actions. Please check for the legality before attempting the project within your area. As long as

Step 1: Gather The Parts

Picture of Gather The Parts
All of these are available on any branch of RadioShack! :)
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MISC:
- Copper Clad PCB/ Perfboard
- Solid Gauge # 18 Wire
- Electret Microphone
- ¼" Bolt
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Transistors:
- 2N3904 General NPN Transistor (2x)
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Capacitors:
- 15pF or 40pF Trimmer Capacitor
- 100nF Ceramic Capacitor (2x)
- 10nF Ceramic Capacitor
- 4pF Ceramic Capacitor
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Resistors:
- 1M Ohm ¼w Resistor
- 100K Ohm ¼w Resistor
- 10K Ohm ¼w Resistor (3x)
- 1K Ohm ¼w Resistor
- 100 Ohm ¼w Resistor
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Tools:
- A Pair Of Pliers
- Soldering Iron
- Hot Glue Gun

Step 2: PCB & Schematics

Picture of PCB & Schematics
I designed a compact PCB layout for Art Swan's miniature FM transmitter circuit using Fritzing. Use this step as your reference for the assembly.
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About The Circuit: These is the exact description of Art Swan, the circuit's Author, "This miniature transmitter is easy to construct and can be picked up on any standard FM receiver. It has a range of up to 1/4 mile or more. It's great for room monitoring, baby listening and nature research"
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Download Link:https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwP5mrDBOvNYaHFnME...

Step 3: Print The PCB Layout

Picture of Print The PCB Layout
Download the PDF file then print it with your printer's standard setting then cut the printed layout. Be careful when cutting, the tip of my thumb got sliced by the sharp cutter blade.
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Download Link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwP5mrDBOvNYaHFn...

Step 4: Develop The PCB

Picture of Develop The PCB
I'm using something what's called presensitized PCB fabrication, it's different from the toner transfer method. If you're not familiar with presensitized PCBs, better go with the toner transfer method.
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Presensitized PCBs: I expose mine directly to a 10W fluorescent lamp for 5:20 minutes then use a dilute solution of Sodium Hydroxide to develop the exposed PCB.
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Step 5: Etch The PCB

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Pour Ferric Chloride on a plastic tray then start to etch the PCB.

Step 6: Clean The PCB

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Use a swab and Acetone to remove the photo-positive layer/ toner.

Step 7: Solder The Components

Picture of Solder The Components
Use step #2 as your reference. Solder the smaller parts first. Start with the resistors, the capacitors, the transistors, the coil, the antenna then the 9V cattery clip.

Step 8: Construct The Coil

Picture of Construct The Coil
Strip a solid gauge #18 wire. Use a 1/4" bolt then turn the wire 7-8 times.

Step 9: Adding The Antenna

Picture of Adding The Antenna
Solder a hook-up wire to the antenna pin, it's located on the 2nd transistor's collector pin. Use a maximum of 8 inches an a minimum of 5 inches.

Step 10: Recycle A Battery Clip

Picture of Recycle A Battery Clip
The key to this compact transmitter is the ingenious battery clip.You can get one by dismantling an scrap 9v battery.

Step 11: Glue Them Together

Picture of Glue Them Together
Apply a generous blob of hot glue to hold the clip and the transmitter circuit together.

Step 12: Breadboard Version

Picture of Breadboard Version
Recently, people have been asking me if it's possible to make this project without having to fabricate a PCB. The answer is yes. In fact I built my first FM transmitter on a perfboard. I guess some are new to this, no worries I'm here to teach you.
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The answer to this is a "Perfboard/ Prototype board. It's a PCB designed for prototyping circuits. There are three types of perfboards, the one that suits our needs is the dot matrix version. If you're new to this, make magazine has handy YouTube tutorial.

Step 13: Tune The Transmitter

Picture of Tune The Transmitter
Turn on your radio then tune it to your desired channel frequency. You'll get more range from the vacant channels. Don't touch the coil, just turn the trimmer capacitor until you hear a feedback from the radio.

Step 14: Q&A - Tips & Tricks

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Where Can I Buy The Parts?
If you live in the US, all the parts that I've used are available from Radioshack. You don't believe me? The parts from my first non-recycled transmitter came from RadioShack, Long Island, NY branch.
Any Alternatives For The Trimmer Capacitor?
Most likely, you'll find one from a scrap transistor radios however you can replace it with a 20pF ceramic capacitor then rely on the coil's adjustment for compensation. Trimmer caps are color coded, only use the Red, Green or Yellow. I used the yellow since it covers a wider range.
Which Wire Should I Use?
Only use solid wires that has a thickness of 18 - 22 gauge. When I was still a novice hobbyist, I was worried about the strict selection of parts. Don't worry too much, eventually you'll learn to improvise when parts are not available.
Why Does The Frequency Change After Tuning?
Let's admit it, tuning the radio is a bloody challenge! If you use a metal screw driver to tune the trimmer cap, chances are you'll end up having a different frequency broadcast the moment you lift the screw driver. This is why non conductive screw drivers are recommended.
Where Can I Find A Non-Conductive Screwdriver?
You'll easily find one from a PC repair shop, or maybe form a hardware store. If you really can't find one, the famous Little Bits kit comes with it.
Is It Possible To Connect A 3.5mm Audio Jack?
Yes, it's possible! All you need to do is to link the common ground then solder a 1K ohm resistor each channel (L & R) forming a junction. Now solder a wire from the junction to U1's collector pin (refer to the schematic). You can now connect your MP3 player! I'll post an additional step regarding this mod.
Can I Hook This On A 12v Car Battery?
This project would still operate at voltages between 7v-14v, so yeah it's compatible. If you want to stay safe and prevent the circuit from burning, solder a 10 ohm resistor in series with the FM transmitter and 12v battery.
Is This Legal?
As long as you don't use it to spy on others and not use a long & huge antenna then yes, it's legal. Just don't use it near an airport. For more info, pleas read the FCC Rules.

Step 15: Don't Forget To Leave A Comment [Stay Tuned]

Picture of Don't Forget To Leave A Comment [Stay Tuned]
Please don't forget leave a comment below. Thank you!